It might be special order, but this cable can be used indoors or underground, it can be sleeved directly through the existing pipe, and can run through the garage. At this point it's a guess and you'll probably just waste money on the wrong materials at this time.įinally, this may be a good application for 6-3/g PVC-jacket MC cable, brand name Armorlite. I wouldn't run the 30A circuit until you actually buy the tool(s) you want. You'll also need at least one switched interior and exterior light fixture at each human door. The two most common approaches would be to either sleeve the NM in conduit where is runs down the walls, or use some kind of wall sheathing (drywall, plywood, OSB) to cover the stud bays where NM cable runs.Īll 120V receptacles in the garage need to have GFCI protection. Inside the garage, you will need to provide protection for NM cable below ceiling height. The THHN conductors cannot be hanging loose. No more than 360 degrees of bends are allowed between accessible pull points. When you install the new conduit it has to be fully assembled from junction box to junction box using proper fittings and sweep elbows. You would want to use SER cable from the main panel to the junction box for the indoor portion of the run, not SEU. If you Google you can find some calculators to help with this.Ĥ. A "demand load calculation" is the proper approach to determine if you service is adequate. When you calculate load on a service you only look at actual loads, not max rating of the panel. There is no limit on the number of outlets per circuit unless you have a local code which adds that limitation.ģ. You can run a 70A feeder (3 #6 + 1 #10 copper THWN) through a 3/4" PVC conduit, so I think you'll be fine if you can get 3/4" or 1" PVC conduit.Ģ. If I'm wrong, should I just accept the cost upgrade and go to 100A? That would require upgrading the supply cable, which brings up more problems like "will that fit safely in the conduit I have available".Ĥ) What else have I screwed up in this plan? I've done enough electrical work to be comfortable doing the work, but not enough to be certain of my planning.Ĭan you do some more recon on the steel conduit? Is it heavy wall threaded? If it is thinwall it is probably rotted away in the middle.ġ. Is that correct? If so, I'll probably run EMT or something for the 220V, and not actually wire it until later.ģ) I'm reasonably certain that the main panel I have doesn't have sufficient capacity for a sub panel larger than 60A. Is that adequate for the wires I'll need? And is there really a good reason to line the steel conduit with plastic?Ģ) My understanding is that the limitation is 9 outlets on a 110V/20A circuit, and 1 on a 220V/30A circuit. It looks like 10ga wire is right for the 220V circuit.ġ) It looks like I can run up to 1" plastic conduit (possibly 1.25") in the existing steel conduit. I'll probably do 12-2 for everything that's 110, so as to reduce the number of types of wire I need to buy. If that's not the code, please let me know.ģ) In-garage. It looks to me as if code says 6ga bare copper, two grounding rods 6' apart, so that's what I'll do. I'm figuring 4-4-4-6 SEU cable from the main panel to a junction box over the end of the conduit, switch to four separate THWN cables (to ease the curve at each end), and run the four separate cables to the new subpanel.Ģ) Ground. While it's in good shape at the ends, I have no idea what the middle looks like, and currently code seems to suggest plastic conduit anyway. Line the existing steel conduit with plastic. The eventual goal is two 20A/110V circuits for power (woodworking tools, primarily), a 15A/110V circuit for lighting, and a 240V circuit, probably 30A, for future large tool purchases. The actual route distance looks like it's going to be just about 75 feet. Getting out of the conduit is a relatively sharp bend: the well is around 8" across. On the garage end, it opens into the bottom of a well that looks like it was made with a clay chimney pipe. The conduit has a 1.5" internal diameter, and passes through the foundation on the house end. Both are elderly, and of the cloth-jacketed wire variety. Currently there are two BX cables run through a buried steel conduit to the garage. I'm in the planning stage of getting (reliable) electricity run to a detached garage.
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